Geranium's improbable address above Copenhagen's national stadium is part of the charm: a temple of delicacy hovering over a place built for noise. Rasmus Kofoed's cooking has grown lighter and more elemental over the years, with vegetables, seafood, flowers and Nordic seasonality carrying the emotional weight once assigned to meat. The meal can feel almost weightless, but never insubstantial. Beneath the serenity is formidable technique, a choreographed dining room and a quiet insistence that luxury can be measured in freshness, restraint and air.